Ignition Stick Coil – BMW S 1000 RR / R / XR | HP4 EFI '13-'21

On many BMW models the ignition coil and spark plug cap are built into a single stick-type unit to cut down on parts and improve packaging in the engine bay. It works well until the cap wears out — at which point the whole assembly has to be replaced rather than just a lead or boot. Misfiring, rough running, hard starting or a flat spot under load can all point to a tired stick coil.

This RMSTATOR stick coil is a direct replacement for the original unit on the BMW S 1000 RR, S 1000 R, S 1000 XR and HP4 EFI models from 2013 to 2021. It drops straight into the plug well with no wiring changes, and every unit is tested before it ships.

Suited to riders and workshops chasing an ignition fault, or anyone refreshing a high-kilometre engine. Note that the coils are sold individually — check how many your engine needs before ordering.

• Direct replacement for the original BMW stick coil — no wiring modification needed
• Combined ignition coil and spark plug cap in one unit, as fitted from the factory
• Built to meet or exceed OEM specification
• Every unit tested before dispatch
• 138 mm overall length with 7 mm internal and 17 mm external diameter
• Sealing collar 21 mm long and 31 mm in diameter
• Resistance across terminals 2–3: 546 ohms
• Fits BMW S 1000 RR, S 1000 R, S 1000 XR and HP4 EFI, 2013–2021

Turn the ignition off and disconnect the battery negative terminal before removing or fitting a coil.
Follow the service manual to remove the tank or airbox cover for access to the plug wells — do not force components out of the way.
Pull the coil straight up and out of the well; never lever it out by the connector or pull on the loom.
Before refitting, make sure the plug well is clean, dry and free of oil or coolant, as contamination will cause a repeat misfire.
Inspect the spark plug while the coil is out and replace it if the electrode is worn or fouled; a marginal plug puts extra load on a new coil.
Check the rubber seal and the coil body for cracks, splits or tracking marks — any of these allow moisture in and cause breakdown under load.
Press the coil down until the seal seats fully on the plug and the loom connector clicks home, then check the connector is dry and locked.
When fault-finding, compare the measured resistance with the 546 ohm figure across terminals 2–3; a reading well outside that points to a failed unit.
The coil is a sealed, non-serviceable item — there is nothing to adjust or lubricate internally.
Store spares in a cool, dry place and avoid dropping them, as impact can damage the internal windings without any visible sign.
If several coils on a high-kilometre engine are original, consider replacing them together to avoid chasing the same fault again.